Pollonia is a peaceful little fishing village in the northeast of Milos which developed along the shore of a beautiful bay. Aghia Paraskevi, the local church built on a headland, is a magical image visible from all over the village. Apart from its celebrated fish tavernas, Pollonia has everything you could wish for: good food in abundance, coffee and drinks, grocery stores, children’s playground, basket ball and beach volley pitches and an organised diving centre.

From here distances are short: 10 kilometres to Adamas, the island’s main port, 12 kilometres to Plaka and Tripiti, 15 kilometres to the airport. The longest journey, about 25 kilometres, will take you to the beaches of western Milos: Triades, Aghios Ioannis, Amoudaraki, Agathia.

Barely two kilometres away are the archaeological excavations at the site of Filakopi, one of the most important towns in Aegean pre-history, and also the famous caves of Papafranga.

It is a short trip to the snow-white lunar landscape of Sarakiniko.

There are easy, if unconventional, excursions to make as well. Rambling explorations, for example, of the mineral heritage of the island. You’ll be awestruck by the colours of the quarry at Angerias and at the sight of the abandoned installations at Theiorycheia.

By boat from Pollonia you can visit neighbouring Kimolos in 30 minutes, or the island of Polyaigos with its tropical waters – described as one of the most important natural habitats in the European Union – or the striking rock island of Glaronissia, formed from volcanic lava.

If you have a boat, anchor alongside in the harbour at Pollonia, base yourself at Kapetan Tasos and do the round trip of Milos, taking in the famous Kleftiko and the caves at Sykias.

Without exaggerating, you’ll start to count beaches: there are 70 more or less, and every one different, some well-known and some off the beaten track.